NEW DELHI — Getting into New Delhi’s PCO (Pass Code Only) bar is not for the fainthearted. There is no welcoming signage — the entrance is marked only by an unassuming telephone box — and patrons cannot enter without typing a passcode that opens the front door.

Inside, though, lies India’s original speakeasy — a breed of bars inspired by America’s 1920-33 Prohibition era that offer a unique blend of nostalgia, mystery and elegance combined with outstanding mixology and (usually) excellent food.